Budapest has many stories, and many scars, the deepest of which runs along the Danube. It was here, towards the end of World War II, that the fascist Arrow Cross Party (Nyilaskeresztes Párt) lined up the city’s remaining Jewish population. Thousands of men, women and children stood on the ledge above the water, shoes discarded, waiting to be shot. They say the river ran red for days.

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