The last time I stood on these walls, I saw Dubrovnik -her glory, her history, her scars. I traced the slants of orange rooftops all the way to the blue waves. I stood over flowering courtyards and packed cafes. I snuck quick peeks through open windows to get a glimpse of daily life along the walls -classrooms in session, busy kitchens and drying laundry lines is how the other Dubrovnik lives. I was fascinated.

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